Ukrainian Cooking: Beer Substitutes for Kvass in Pork Stew

Ukrainian chef Yevhen Klopotenko recommends using dark beer as a substitute for kvass in the preparation of vereshchaka, a traditional pork stew. The advice appears in his cookbook, “The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen,” and offers a solution for home cooks who struggle to locate the fermented beverage outside its home country.

Traditionally, vereshchaka is braised in kvass, a low-alcohol drink made from beets or bread. Klopotenko notes that finding kvass in other regions can be challenging, while home brewing requires considerable time. He states that while the flavor profile differs slightly without the distinct beet or bread notes, the result remains close to the standard recipe.

The chef specifies that dark beer works best for this adaptation. He advises that darker varieties produce a better taste than lighter options. This technique aligns with existing culinary practices in several European countries where meat is commonly cooked in beer.

The recipe serves four to six people and requires approximately two hours and thirty minutes to complete. The main ingredient is a pork shoulder weighing between two and two and one-half pounds. The meat is cut into bite-size chunks and seasoned with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and minced garlic.

Cooking begins by searing the pork chunks in sunflower oil until browned on all sides. The meat is then transferred to an ovenproof dish, sprinkled with dried oregano, and partially covered with three-quarters of the three cups of dark beer. The dish bakes in a preheated oven at 375 degrees Fahrenheit for one and one-half to two hours.

While the pork bakes, the sauce is prepared by deglazing the frying pan with the remaining beer. The liquid is reduced, then thickened with a slurry made from softened butter and all-purpose flour. The final dish is plated with a drizzle of this sauce, a topping of breadcrumbs, and a garnish of fresh parsley.

Klopotenko is a restaurateur and social activist who promotes Ukrainian cuisine through his website, klopotenko.com. The recipe is excerpted from his 2024 book, published by Voracious, an imprint of Little, Brown and Co.